Sunday, November 15, 2009

A cellphone buyer's guide

I've worked in other fields beyond IT and desktop support. I have worked for Sprint in a customer service center in the past, and during my job hunt I am currently working for Verizon Wireless on a temporary basis, with a chance to be hired if I do well enough.

I know a little something about cellphones, Blackberries, and the things that owning a wireless communication device entails. I've seen a lot of people come into the store frustrated for a variety of reasons as of late. Without further ado, I present my Cellphone Buyer's Guide:

Matt's Guide to Cellphone Purchase, 2009 Holiday Edition

The holiday season is fast approaching, and with that comes gift buying for those that are into it. I've been gradually trying to wean myself and my family off the practice, mainly due to the unneeded stress that it can add to both mind and wallet when the best parts of holiday time are free (or the cost of a few groceries- I like making chili from scratch for family).

Buying a cellphone is often like Car Buying Light- it's not quite as stressful as purchasing an automobile, but it has far more potential to irritate than, say, buying a CD or a toaster. So here are some tips I have learned from watching the sales staff and customers that will hopefully make the experience fun, or at worst, not unpleasant:

1) Do your homework, or set aside plenty of time to catch up.

First, write down what you want to do with the device. Whether you want excellent sound quality, superior battery life, a shock/water/dust resistant body, real-time email/IM/internet updating, or just something that makes calls, start by going to the carrier or carriers you are interested in and see what they have to offer.

Most, if not all of the carrier websites have plenty of data about all the phones they currently sell and a comparison tool that will allow side-by-side feature listings. Look up the name of the phone plus the word "review" and read what people have to say- both regular consumers and experts.

Go over the features of the phones that look interesting. When you are down to 2-3 phones, it's time to head to a store to try them out and get a look. Ask plenty of questions- it's the salespeople's job to answer them, and if they are any good at selling they know that being helpful and courteous now will mean business later.

If you don't want to spend time doing research online, or if you have limited Internet access, plan some time to go to the store(s) and check out the phones. Verizon has live demo units in its corporate stores and I believe Sprint's corporate stores also have them. I can't speak for third-party resellers, which brings me to the next item:

2) Know who you're dealing with.

I am not going to slander third-party resellers- in many cases they do excellent work.

However, if any of them make claims that seem a little too good to be true, always find a corporate store or call the provider's customer service line to be sure. I've heard a couple of customers say "the guy at ____ store said I could" to which the rep would reply "They are a reseller- this is a corporate store. They might have options available to them that we don't, but unfortunately we aren't able to swap out a 6 month old phone because you don't like it anymore."

The short version- whichever location you pick, do what you can to continue doing business with that particular store for the life of your phone (i.e. until you decide to change to a different device or carrier). That way, if any problems arise, the options available to you will stay consistent.

3) Expect to spend at least 30-60 minutes minimum at the store.

Unless you are just picking up an accessory or making a bill payment, expect to spend at least half an hour in the store. The fastest phone upgrade I have seen took about 20 minutes to perform from start to finish, and that customer knew exactly what he wanted, knew he had an upgrade credit, and had no other changes to make to his account.

Don't be a jerk and come into the store ten minutes before close and say you're interested in an upgrade. The people in the store have lives and families too- they are already going to be working longer hours as it is. Sooner or later there comes a time when we all have to work longer than we were supposed to in a given day, and we really don't want to. Retail workers have these days more often than many of us, and triple that during Christmas season.

If you are just making a quick bill payment or car charger purchase, then it's no problem to come in ten minutes before close. If you are looking to buy two new phones, come back the next day, or schedule an appointment- that way no one feels rushed.

4) Ask questions before signing anything.

This should be common sense. I don't want to sound like I'm discouraging anyone from ever buying a cellphone- just know what that signature on the paper means. Here are a few questions to get you started:
  • What if I don't like the phone?
  • What if service where I live and/or work is awful?
  • Do I need to have anything (like internet access) blocked to ensure I avoid unneeded charges?
  • Does that smartphone require paying extra for a data plan?
  • What options do I have in case I break or lose my phone?
Very few people sign a car loan or lease agreement without knowing the terms of the document. Treat your wireless service the same way.

5) Get over the refurbished/reconditioned hate.

I suspect this will be an unpopular topic, but seriously, it's time we think about cellphones the way we think about cars. First, the reason for bringing it up to begin with:

I highly recommend insurance, even if you have an old phone that will work in case something happens to the new one. You'll be able to get a replacement for much less, usually between $40 and $90. Insurance should be a no-brainer for new smartphone buyers since the cheapest of those devices tend to start at $400 each. I am careful with my phones and keep the old one as a backup, so I personally would not insure a basic phone whose retail cost (with no contract or plan required) is $150 or less, as the money spent on insurance over two years is just shy of that amount. Better to just save the monthly fee in a savings account- if I don't have to replace the phone, that's $144 plus a bit of interest I have waiting for a rainy day.

People buy used cars all the time. With a little research, one can buy a great car at a fraction of the car's new price. There are good and bad used cars, based on individuals and makes and models.

Most people that have ever owned more than one car have bought, or known someone that bought, a lemon. Services like Carfax exist now to minimize the chances of buying a car with major problems.

Now, imagine if all used cars had undergo a process like the Honda Certified Used program (one of the strictest in the automotive industry). That's what most refurbs go through. Most refurbished cellphones come from one of two sources- they are assembled into one good phone from multiple broken phones, or they are perfectly fine phones returned for reasons unrelated to the phone's condition.

In the former case, it's not all that different from buying a car that has had one or more parts replaced with parts from a junkyard; in the latter, phones returned because someone didn't like them are a common source (30-day no-questions-asked guarantees are a common source of these).

If it never had problems, it's basically no different from buying a week-old phone from a buddy that decided he didn't like it. If it did have issues, the phone has to undergo a series of tests to ensure that everything works in it, just like a new phone. Some of these tests are actually more thorough than the quality checks on new phones leaving the factory.

Does this mean I believe all refurbished phones will never have a problem? No- I mean that if a refurbished replacement has the same issue(s) as the new phone did, it is likely a flaw in design, not the fact that the phone is refurbished. Sometimes the phone software is buggy and needs to be fixed- a software upgrade will resolve problems like this most of the time.

Sometimes a phone is poorly designed. I once owned a Peugeot 505 compact that was a great car for the most part, but its electrical system used a lot more power than most luxury cars. I had to put a truck battery in the thing to ensure the car would start if I didn't drive it every day. I didn't blame the battery or the fact that it was used- it was a known issue with this model and year, the workaround I used was the best known fix (if memory serves, the other option was a drastic rewiring that would've cost more than the car was worth), and other than that it was fine.

One more thing- if you want to be more green, refurbished phones cost much less to build than new ones do.

In short, refurbishment is usually not an issue- some phones are just poorly designed, some are released with imperfect software, and sometimes, well, let's move to the next item.

6) Don't believe the hype.

I wanted an excuse to reference Flavor Flav, but the point is, make sure your expectations are realistic.

First off, don't settle for lousy coverage where you live for the sake of a particular phone. I know plenty of people who own the iPhone, and the one complaint they have about it is nearly universal- the coverage is bad.

The iPhone is not the be-all, end-all of smartphones anymore. Period. There's nothing wrong with owning or liking the iPhone, but do some research and try out the iPhone and some of its competitors first before you buy. There are some things the iPhone won't do (at least not without paying extra for an application) that my Windows Mobile-based phone does out of the box. For example, I can put a MicroSD card in and later, replace it with a larger one that holds more. I can also buy a replacement battery for my phone. Neither of these features are present on the iPhone. Figure out what you want the device to do first, then try, then buy.

This also applies to knowing that as awesome as these devices are, none are perfect (not even the iPhone- it took them two generations to get it right). If you want to watch TV or Youtube videos on your smartphone, sometimes there will be brief pauses while the phone caches (preloads) the show's data. If you buy a Blackberry, Android, Windows Phone, or iPhone based device, it will require more frequent recharging than a basic phone does because these phones are often doing a lot more at the same time. The more stuff you do with your phone beyond calls and texting, the more power you'll use.

Most phones are not exactly what could be considered durable. Even phones made to be water and shock resistant aren't water or shatterproof. Most folks that own the G'zone Boulder (its successor is set to be released soon) have dropped it on the ground, in a pool, in a lake, or whatever else and had no problems with them afterward. A Blackberry Storm 2 is not going to be that tough. I would recommend a case of some kind for any phone that won't fit in your pocket, and screen protectors for anything with a screen larger than 2 inches wide (and any touch-based phone, for that matter).

7) Just a little patience, yeah-eah.

OK, that's the last song reference, I promise.

Give yourself time to adjust to the new device. That's what the 30 day guarantees are for- to ensure you'll be happy with the device for the next 2 years or more. A restock fee might be obnoxious to you but it's a small price to pay for ensuring that you get a phone you like.

Have patience when at the store making your purchase, too. As I mentioned before, even a straightforward purchase where you know exactly what you want takes time to complete. If you are patient and positive, the sales rep will thank you and remember it. I've seen frustrated but otherwise kind and patient customers walk away with at least a slightly better outcome than normal policy would dictate.

I've also seen belligerent self-entitled customers who could've gotten a little slack cut for them get nothing because the rep was too frustrated to compromise. I am not saying that is the way it should be, just that I have noticed evidence that the Golden Rule sometimes has tangible benefits.

Don't forget the obvious with respect to patience- wait until after the new year to buy unless it's for a seasonal gift that has to be there on time. Wireless stores have clearance specials and deals like most retail establishments do.

If you have any questions, feel free to drop me a line as always at enduserblues@yahoo.com.

Good luck, and may your next cellphone never drop a call.

--Matt

Monday, July 20, 2009

How to Practice Ventriloquism

Can't embed this one, but here's another one I did.

My gut is not like that in real life- I was sticking it out for emphasis.

http://www.howcast.com/videos/210385-How-To-Practice-Ventriloquism

Friday, July 10, 2009

Another non-computer-related project

I helped my friend Dimitri with a pitch film (something of a movie trailer for industry people to get them interested in funding/working with a project).

Not computer-related, but...

This is a video on treating headaches naturally. I might be doing more like this in the future.

What Is the Difference Between Hubs & Routers?


What Is the Difference Between Hubs & Routers? -- powered by eHow.com

How Does a Photocopier Work?


How Does a Photocopier Work? -- powered by eHow.com

What Are the Various Types of Printers?


What Are the Various Types of Printers? -- powered by eHow.com

How Do Wireless Internet Cards Work?

The note about 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz is important if you're a fan of cordless home phones. Sometimes wireless routers or access points will suffer interference from cordless phone systems on the same frequency. Your best bet is to buy a dual-band router or access point and card.


How Do Wireless Internet Cards Work? -- powered by eHow.com

How to Secure a Wireless Internet Connection

Some folks will share their connections with their neighbors, splitting the costs. Generally I wouldn't do this unless I knew the other people could be trusted- the last thing you want is your neighbor helping you save a few bucks on your ISP bill each month only to get a cease and desist letter because they've been downloading music or movies illegally.

I'm no legal expert, but last I checked I believe the person whose name is on the bill is ultimately responsible, at least unless it can be proven beyond a shadow of a doubt that only certain machine(s) performed the piracy.


How to Secure a Wireless Internet Connection -- powered by eHow.com

How to Fix a Paper Shredder


How to Fix a Paper Shredder -- powered by eHow.com

How to Stop a Print Job


How to Stop a Print Job -- powered by eHow.com

How Does a Computer Modem Work?

The first easy-to-use modem was the Smartmodem from Hayes Technologies modems and the maximum transmission rate was 300 bits per second.

The 56K modem that most people remember can transmit up to 56,000 bits per second. The real-life maximum was more like 43,000 bits per second- a true 56K connection can only be established in laboratory conditions. Ask a phone engineer about it if you are interested- the phone system and even the wires themselves play a role.

AT&T's fastest ADSL offering in my area is 6 Mbps download/receive and 512 Kbps upload/send. That is a theoretical maximum of 524,288 bits per second for uploads and a whopping 6,291,456 bits per second for downloads. The actual connection speed can vary though- I can explain what my ISP taught me about how mainstream providers work.

Cable, Fiber optic aka FIOS, and DSL offerings in other areas can be even faster. A lot has changed since the days of the first modems, hasn't it?


How Does a Computer Modem Work? -- powered by eHow.com

How to Fix a Paper Jam in a Copy Machine


How to Fix a Paper Jam in a Copy Machine -- powered by eHow.com

How to Print on Inkjet Transparencies


How to Print on Inkjet Transparencies -- powered by eHow.com

What Is Wireless Data Networking?


What Is Wireless Data Networking? -- powered by eHow.com

What Equipment Is Needed to Make My Internet Wireless?

Also note that Draft-N will eventually become a standard. The main thing to keep in mind with Draft-N based wireless networking equipment is that while it is likely that different brands (and even product lines within a brand) will work together, there's no guarantee that they will all work at the best connection speed.

For example, if you buy a Netgear Draft-N router and a Linksys Draft-N wireless network card for your laptop, you might not be able to get the best possible connection speed from them.

Until the 802.11N standard is no longer a draft, I recommend buying a draft-N router and network cards from the same product line. This will prevent compatibility issues.


What Equipment Is Needed to Make My Internet Wireless? -- powered by eHow.com

How to Hook Up a Fax Machine


How to Hook Up a Fax Machine -- powered by eHow.com

How to Set Up Your Home Network


How to Set Up Your Home Network -- powered by eHow.com

How to Scan a Document


How to Scan a Document -- powered by eHow.com

How to Connect a Wireless Router to a DSL Modem


How to Connect a Wireless Router to a DSL Modem -- powered by eHow.com

How to set up a web camera


How to Set Up a Web Camera -- powered by eHow.com

Thursday, July 2, 2009

How to Link 2 Computers


How to Link 2 Computers -- powered by eHow.com

How does a microchip work?


How Does a Microchip Work? -- powered by eHow.com

The eHow videos are finally here!

The eHow videos have finally been posted! I'll follow with embeds shortly...

http://www.ehow.com/videos-on_10336_computer-basics.html

Tuesday, April 7, 2009

Quick update...

I just got through wrapping up a series of clips for ExpertVillage.com about basic computer usage and troubleshooting. I will post the links here as the clips become available.

Wednesday, January 14, 2009

Touching on the spyware question

Spyware. A big topic, big enough to deserve its own website (and there are plenty out there- CastleCops RIP). I'll divide this into 3 segments: my take on what spyware is, what it can do, and what tools I use to get rid of it.

Part one: What is Spyware?

The technical definitions of the word spyware and its cronies can be argued at depth by hardcore computer geeks. To the average user, whether a trojan is the means of delivering malware or the malware itself is unimportant (though I have explained it below). All you need to know is that these are unwanted programs and bits of code that at best are annoying and at worst are potentially hazardous to your privacy and can cause your machine to come to a screeching halt. I'll go over the terms in brief anyway:

Malware is short for malicious software. Spyware is a type of malware that installs itself without your consent in order to gather information or control certain aspects of your computer's functionality without your knowledge or permission. Adware is a type of spyware that messes with the ads shown on normal webpages or displays popup ads out of nowhere. A Trojan is basically a program that masquerades as a legitimate piece of software- it tries to trick you into running it. If you do, it might install spyware, adware, or even viruses and other nastiness onto your machine.

In a very general manner of speaking, spyware is any program that:
  • you didn't intentionally install
  • that takes over some of your computer's functionality or
  • tries to send information about you to someone else without your permission.

Part two: What can spyware do?

As I've already suggested above, spyware can do all sorts of nasty things. It can track which sites you've visited, search terms you've used, blitz your desktop with annoying popups, slow your machine to a crawl or lock it up, and in the worst cases, attempt to gather personal information about you (including sensitive private data like credit card and social security numbers).

Most of the spyware I've dealt with logs what sites you've visited and sends the results to a central server, which marketing companies use to send "targeted" ads to you. These programs run all the time so they use system memory and network bandwidth. In other words, they slow down both your computer and your internet connection.

So at the least, spyware is an annoyance, much like spam messages. At the worst, it can completely wreck your Windows installation or even assist a criminal in stealing your identity.

Part Three: How can I remove spyware and protect myself?

First off, are you running anti-virus software? Second question, if needed: why not?! Some legend-in-their-own-mind techies will say "I don't need antivirus software." OK, Sparky, if you enjoy manually hunting viruses and such and removing them that's great, but the rest of us have lives to lead and are not anti-virus software engineers.

If you have one, good- make sure your antivirus subscription is current and your definitions are up to date. If not, go to Grisoft's site and download AVG Free Edition. I've been using it for years and it does an excellent job. It is completely free for home use. AVG gives it away in the hopes that you'll eventually upgrade to one of their paid products, so no hidden surprises.

Now onto anti-spyware tools. Go get Spybot- Search and Destroy. It is donateware (if you like it, the authors encourage you to make a donation to their site via Paypal). Download it, install it (there is a critical step- when you get to the point where it asks you which protection measures to use, uncheck "Use system settings protection (TeaTimer)." While I have not seen many issues with the current iteration of SpyBot, I've seen a glitch where TeaTimer hogs all available memory in earlier versions. There is a way to turn it on and off within the program if you want to try it out (Mode -> Advanced Mode, then go to the Tools item on the left and select Resident). When it works, it prevents programs from changing your system settings unless you allow them.

If you have a full security suite that includes an anti-spyware scanner, then it and Spybot could be considered enough. I prefer to err on the side of paranoia and have at least one more spyware scanner. These are products I can recommend from personal experience:
  • Spyware Doctor by PC Tools.
  • Ad-Aware by Lavasoft
  • I admit I am skeptical of this product with respect to Windows XP, but it is installed by default on Vista systems if memory serves: Windows Defender. There was a dry spell a couple of years ago where there were no new updates, but it appears that is over. Microsoft basically purchased the Giant Anti-Spyware engine and tweaked it a little- the Giant product was a good one and Microsoft's works fairly well too.
  • Javacool's SpywareBlaster. SpywareBlaster isn't a spyware scanner. Instead, it works by patching potential security issues in browsers. This is one of those that couldn't hurt.
  • Webroot's Spy Sweeper is a great product, though it does cost money.
It should be noted that Webroot, Lavasoft, and PC Tools all offer full suites that include their anti-spyware tools plus anti-virus and more, much like the "big two" (Network Associates aka McAfee and Symantec aka Norton, depending on the product) and their competition.

In any event, whatever tools you use, I recommend these practices:
  • Make use of additional protections within each tool, like Spyware Doctor's real-time protection and Spybot's Immunization feature. Scanning is only part of the puzzle.
  • Keep the definitions updated. Minimum of once a week. I can't stress this enough- most anti-virus software updates automatically. Spybot and Ad-Aware do not update automatically, so keep them updated.
  • Scan periodically. I recommend every couple of weeks for occasional users or twice a week for those of you on your computers all day every day. You can schedule the scans to start automatically in some tools (Spybot uses Task Scheduler, others often have internal settings for scheduling).
  • Don't download just any old anti-spyware app or antivirus, no matter how dire that banner ad says the situation is. More on that below.
Part Four: Wrapping up.

There are a few more things I want to note:
  • If you see a popup or banner ad in your browser telling you you have infections, DO NOT click on it. That's a trick to get you to install malware onto your machine- a sort of trojan for the trojan, if you will. Effects can range from what I like to call "software blackmail," where software claims it cannot be uninstalled or clean all of the infections unless you pay for it to keyloggers and data miners, which are meant to steal your credit card info, social security number, etc.

    This is different from having, say, Norton 360 and that popping up and telling you you're infected, if you have Norton 360 installed on your machine. That should be heeded and dealt with ASAP. What I am referring to are ads on random websites telling you your PC is infected. Those ads have no way of knowing- until you fall for the ruse and install their disguised malware.

  • The term adware is sometimes applied to legit software that pays for itself with banner ads. The Opera browser, for example, used to run a small banner ad in the upper right corner unless you paid for it. No other functionality was compromised, no data gathered, just periodic, mostly unobtrusive ads in the corner. The mail client Eudora has a similar setup. These are examples of software that is technically adware (since it shows ads on your machine) but isn't spyware (both clearly note the existence of the ad during installation, and describe thoroughly what the ad window does and doesn't do).

    Neither of these programs put anything bad on your machine, nor do they send private info to the bad guys. In fact, I highly recommend Opera as a browser- but that's another subject for another time. Point is, if you hear programmers talking about adware, they might be talking about legitimate non-spyware programs that are paid for by advertising. The word adware has a negative stigma in most cases, so legitimate programs often use different terminology.

  • Spyware scanners often turn up tracking cookies. Most of these do reveal how many times you've been to, say, ESPN.com. They may also log how long you were there, how many pages you viewed, etc. Here's the kicker- that ESPN.com cookie is only viewable in two ways: from your machine (i.e. someone has to be sitting at your computer) or by ESPN.com.

    Cleaning out your cookies can be done from within a browser itself, or you can let the scanning software handle it for you. You don't have to do it as a routine, though if you suspect a spyware problem it is a good idea to clean them out. For more info, go to Ask-Leo.com's page on cookies. If nothing else, you might consider deleting cookies for sites that you don't recognize.

  • The anti-spyware list above is not exclusive. Other good products do exist. However, I'd consult these pages before trying another one:

    Spyware Warrior's page isn't completely up to date, but it does have a short list of recommended products. The products on that list are all safe, though I only have secondhand accounts of how effective they are. You can always check the forums, too.

    Like anything else on Wikipedia, this list of rogue software is not comprehensive or completely authoritative, but it is a good starting point.

    Sunbelt's Blog has good info on the latest spyware tricks and threats. They make CounterSpy, which I have heard good things about but I haven't personally tested it. It is not on Spyware Warrior's short list because they have consulted for Sunbelt before and they are avoiding a conflict of interest (it is also a tactic of spyware makers to set up fake sites that give rogue software glowing reviews).

If you take nothing else away from this, I have a few rules as far as software downloads go:

1) Check it out- if nothing else hit up Google with "(program's name) spyware" and see if any of the support forums out there say anything about it. Odds are good that if it isn't legit you'll find something on the first page saying so.
2) The most important rule: when in doubt, rule it out. If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is. Feel free to email me and I can at least point you in the right direction.
3) If you want freeware, check Tucows and Download.com and see if it's there (not in the ads, of course- I refer to downloading it from tucows.com or download.com directly), and what the users are saying about it.
4) Don't use filesharing services. I'll be honest, I'm in the minority among many of my friends with this, but if you want to avoid potential damage, don't bother with them. Most filesharing software comes with spyware as a standard, and with the government the way it is, do you want to implicate yourself? And while torrenting (the process) isn't inherently dangerous, the files you download might be.

Friday, January 9, 2009

Got the Blues? Play 'em for me!

This blog's just going to amount to me going on and on about stuff I like and hate, like every other blog out there, unless I get some feedback.

Email me suggestions and questions about the end-user experience and I'll pick one and post it, giving an answer or commentary as I see fit. Please note that this blog is not meant to serve admins looking to configure servers, corporate networks, etc. Spam, general nastiness, spam, advertisements, and spam will result in me blocking all further submissions, so please be polite and as on-topic as possible.

Thanks- I hope I can help!

Wednesday, January 7, 2009

Copying files in Windows- A Better Way

My first entry concerns a functionality that we all know and deal with on a near-daily basis in Windows- copying.

Let's say you are reorganizing your music files because between iTunes, MediaMonkey, Rhapsody, Windows Media Player, and others, you've burned a bunch of different CDs and downloaded different tunes.

So you decide to copy everything to your My Music folder (I can hear the more tech-savvy among you scoffing already: "why not create a dedicated folder like C:\Music or something? We can talk about that some other time). You begin copying your ten thousand music files, and it asks if you want to overwrite a small file of Head East's "Never Been Any Reason" you ripped in '03 with a larger version you ripped last year. You say "Yes." Then it asks you the same question for Boston's "More Than a Feeling." You say "Yes" to that too. Then it asks you about Judas Priest's "Breaking the Law." See where I'm going with this?

Sometimes, when copying a user's Documents and Settings folder off a local hard drive, it will run just fine for a while then run into a read-only file I either did not know or forgot. Instead of telling you where you left off or letting you skip the file, you end up having to start all over and either recopy everything that successfully moved or copied before, or clicking "No" on a few thousand "Replace the file?" inquiries.

Enter TeraCopy. This little gem replaces the normal Windows copy function (you can change back to normal Windows copy at any time). It keeps track of which files failed and succeeded, so you have the option to go back and see why the failed files didn't work. It also has an "overwrite if older" function- this will tell TeraCopy to replace any file with the same name but only if the file to be replaced is older than the file being copied. Add an automatic retry of failed copies, adjustable copy buffers (if you are just going to set it and forget it, increasing the buffer will mean faster copy times), and the ability to pause a copy job (in case you need to get to something in the middle of a large copy job) and you have a winner.

I've used this program for months now, and it's a huge help. So, Microsoft, will your vaunted Windows 7 give us the same or better copy functionality of this little program?

Welcome to End-User Blues!

Hi folks, my name's Matt. I grew up with computers (since the TI99) and I've been an IT thug professional since 2000.

Before we continue, let's go over the ground rules. I know, I know, rules are annoying- bear with me:
  1. I'm pretty knowledgeable, but no one can know absolutely everything. That said, if you disagree with my opinion, tell me why. More often than not there are multiple solutions to a given problem, and unlike your stereotypical IT guy, I'm not above admitting that I didn't know something. However, be ready to back up your opinion and for the possibility that I might not agree.
  2. Be polite. I reserve the right to delete any comments that are foul-mouthed or put disagreement second to personal attacks. I don't really have a problem with that kind of thing outside of work, but I'm going for a happy medium between informal and professional, casual yet work-safe. Spammers and people who use offensive/abusive language in comments or email will be ban-hammered.
  3. Questions, comments, or suggestions? I'll fill in the first one for you- I need a new blog template ;-) Beyond that, feel free to email me at enduserblues@yahoo.com.
  4. PLEASE READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY BEFORE BEGINNING ANY PROCEDURE. It is incredibly easy to muck up your Windows installation by jumping headlong into something without reading all of the instructions first- trust me on this.
  5. AOL customers- Other than how to get AIM running on Trillian or Pidgin, I won't be handling AOL issues. In my opinion, the only decent AOL product is their Instant Messenger, and that's mainly because of its huge user base. If you use AOL as your internet service provider, my first piece of advice will be to switch to someone else.
  6. Lastly, and most importantly, in this day and age of sue-over-anything, I have to issue the standard legal disclaimer: "Use my advice at your own risk- I provide no guarantee or warranty of any sort, and hereby disclaim myself of any responsibility (legal or otherwise) as a result of you using any information I provide." In other words, I'll do my best to help if something goes wrong, but you use this info at your own risk.
Good. Now that's done and over with, we can get to the good stuff.